Meagre Salaries, Big Hearts in Mysterious China

Liu Ling, Zhu Yuan and Ting Ting (names changed)the luxury of asking them such questions in part
are tour guides who double as office workers atas a writer and in part as something that is
the travel agency where they work. All three areconsidered acceptable in China. People rarely think
smart, intelligent, pretty and in their twenties.twice before asking if one is married, their age,
They dress well, have their hair done every oncesalary or whatever else. If at all anything is
in a way and smoke cigarettes three times theconsidered unacceptable, it is reference to things
price of the ones I do. Mine cost me 4 Yuan asexual. The test is passe.'Four hundred yuan', Zhu
pack and theirs about 13.They are all energetic,Yuan answered. I was shocked. That equals a little
ready to smile and generous. And, they allmore than fifty dollars a month. My former English
welcome me with a musical 'Lao shi' (teacher). Imajor students from a three-year college in
am not their teacher but I, on occasion, haveGuangdong, now, after three years of work
given them some very basic English lessons. I wasexperience earn ten times the salary these
introduced to them by their boss Deng Yi (namevivacious young women earn. I wonder if
changed), an old friend.I dropped in to their officeknowledge of English makes such a huge
this afternoon after a stroll around the city centre.difference. After a few moments of reflection I
They welcomed me with warm smiles and theask them about their education and I learn that
hao ting (pleasant sounding) 'lao shi'. Deng Yithey studied high-school but did not go to college
wasn't in so I chatted with them for a while andor university.'What about the salary of the
soon it was 6.30 PM, closing time. Before theyrestaurant waitresses. What do they earn?' I
closed up they invited me to join them for dinner.enquire. Liu Ling remarks, a sardonic expression on
Lonely as I was I wanted to join them but said aher face, 'More than we do'.I feel a strange
polite 'no thanks'. They insisted and I acceptedsadness and lose my appetite. The crabs, the
gladly.We got into a cab and drove to anumerous other dishes fail to attract my attention
street-side restaurant, a 'daipadang', housed in aas I reflect on the way things are in our world.All I
tent. On the way, Liu Ling said they (the three ofcan utter is, 'You need to study more to better
them) could down 4 jins (2 kgs.) of 'xia' (crabs)your lives.'I think about Deng Yi's colourful
between them. That sounded impressive,evenings at expensive restaurants, Karaoke bars
especially since I am mostly a vegetarian.Weand night clubs and the pained expression on her
stood outside the tent for a while as Liu Ling, Zhubeautiful face. And, then I think about Liu Ling, Zhu
Yuan and Ting Ting looked at the fare on viewYuan and Ting Ting's meagre salaries, benign
inside a glass-cage - a variety of vegetables andlooks, generosity and vivacity. I think about my
meats that they could choose from. I watchedsalary and the difficulty I have making ends
the dapaidang boss's wife and a fuyuan (waitress)meet.I think about China and India and the rest of
scissor the legs off the crabs as they pickedthe world. I feel I know more about life with each
them out from a large plastic bowl, filled withpassing day but less about China with each
writhing crabs awaiting their ignominious end. Afterpassing experience."I don't understand China, I
the legs, they cut their heads off and then pulledcan't understand China,' something whispers
out their entrails, collecting them in a smallerinside...Rajesh Kanoi (Jack) is a published writer,
plastic bowl.Later, as we sat inside sipping on ournow living and working in China. Many of his
beers from little plastic glasses held in plasticshort-stories, poems and articles have been
cup-holders the conversation veered to theirpublished, including a book of short-stories, 'From
work. I asked them about their hours of workChina With Love' (Lipstick Publishing).
and on an impulse, their salary. I allowed myself