| One of Thailand's premier tourist attractions, | | | | pockets and we wobbled of down the road to |
| Kanchanaburi, lies amere two hours from the | | | | see thehighlight of our trip. |
| capital. This proximity means it is wellwithin the | | | | Most people visit Kanchanaburi for one main |
| time constraints of most people's itineraries and | | | | reason; The Bridge andits associated trivia, and on |
| gettingthere could hardly be easier. Buses leave | | | | first impressions, I'm not. Impressedthat is. It's |
| every half hour from | | | | too small. I'd seen the film and was expecting |
| Bangkok's southern bus terminal and deliver you | | | | somethingof epic proportions. And while nice |
| to the center of thissmall town in air-conditioned | | | | enough it didn't really fulfillmy expectations. |
| comfort. The lush green scenery andlaid-back | | | | Incidentally I soon learnt the bridge is not |
| way of life mean that exploring the towns many | | | | actuallyover the river Kwai as most westerners |
| places ofinterest is always enjoyable. | | | | pronounce it. In the Thaitonal language this |
| The moment we stepped from the bus we are | | | | translates as buffalo, the stupidest animalaround |
| (politely) accosted by acacophony of cries. | | | | and a common mammal for insults. As all good |
| "Where you go? Where you go?" We had both | | | | learners of aforeign language do I soon picked up |
| beenhere before and instructed one to drive us | | | | a few common insults and learntthat the most |
| to The Jolly Frog, apopular choice with | | | | insulting thing to call someone is a giant |
| backpackers. Normally, I follow a policy of | | | | watermonitor lizard or maybe the son of....Any |
| theolder the better in regards to motorcycle taxi | | | | way back to my disappointingfirst gaze at the |
| drivers (lesstestosterone and a healthy fear of | | | | bridge. My disillusionment was compounded when |
| death). Somehow though, throughsame kind of | | | | I found out during the show in the evening that it |
| oversight we ended up with a youngster covered | | | | wasn't actuallythe real thing but a replica, the real |
| in tattoosand we were promptly whisked away, | | | | one having been blown up bythe allies of course. |
| with both of us on the back of onemotorcycle. | | | | We strolled across, and back again, gotvery hot |
| No one blinked an eye. My pleas for helmets were | | | | and sought refuge in the nearest restaurant. The |
| metwith incredulous looks and squeezed between | | | | goodthing about Thailand is no matter how small |
| my girlfriend who washanging on the back and | | | | the bridges are youare never far away from |
| the sweaty teenager it wasn't the comfiestof | | | | good food. A dish I always have when I'mby the |
| rides. I'm sure they didn't have insurance either. 50 | | | | river is yam plas muk and believe me there's |
| centsseemed a rather large price to pay a 3k | | | | nothing likethe taste of a spicy squid salad washed |
| journey and all theaccompanying danger but I paid | | | | down with a cool Singabeer. Actually Singa beer is |
| up. | | | | disgusting, but it sounds moreromantic than |
| We soon found ourselves in the restaurant | | | | Heineken. (A new beer has just come on the |
| section of the largeguesthouse with an extensive | | | | marketblack tiger. Now that's a quality beer. Dark |
| menu before us. There are many | | | | tasty and with noneof the formaldehyde |
| otherguesthouses along the river but the food is | | | | aftertaste and resulting hangovers that |
| the reason we and manyothers are here. Locals | | | | Singatends to bring. Sorry boomrang brewery.) |
| too dine at The Jolly Frog and this surelyis | | | | Almost right next to the bridge and clearly |
| testimony to its good cooking. This guesthouse | | | | signposted is the Jeathwar museum. No not a |
| too boasts a lovelylawn and fine views of the | | | | misprint. Now I know being in a forced labourcamp |
| river. After some delicious catfish itwas early to | | | | must have been pretty bad death, disease, etc. |
| bed in a basic but clean room. | | | | but in the photos,it looks like a holiday camp. |
| At about $4 a night, I thought it a bit steep and it | | | | Young bronzed men walking round insarongs, |
| certainly wasn'tthe cheapest option. But hell I'm on | | | | doing their laundry, shaving, hardly any really gave |
| holiday and I don't mind blowinga bit of cash for a | | | | me asense of the horror it must have been. |
| nice double room. Many guesthouses of a similarilk | | | | That evening we hit one of the many stalls lining |
| line the river offering a panoramic view of the | | | | the river in thetown and ate cheap delicious Issan |
| river and themajority are cheap and good value. | | | | food. With this fiery sustenancelining our bellies we |
| The next day, we set of early to get in some | | | | headed into a bar opposite the boats and |
| serious sightseeing andwith the minimum of fuss | | | | enjoyeda couple of jugs of draft beer to the |
| we rented the ubiquitous Honda dream (thehorse | | | | accompaniment of live Thaimusic. I don't know |
| of Asia) for around $4.50 for 24 hrs. More | | | | whether it was for our benefit or not but Ireally |
| expense. I paythrough gritted teeth trying not to | | | | didn't enjoy the version of Country Road. |
| see the crisp 100 baht notesleaving my short's | | | | |