| At one time, Sliema, the largest city in Malta, had | | | | that night to groan a bit, then quit. Joey had a full |
| many very affordable guest houses. This was | | | | house so we got "a room with path" to the |
| before the "discovery" of Malta as a tourist | | | | community bathroom. He promised us a better |
| destination. Unfortunately, guest houses have | | | | room for the next night. The first night's lodging |
| disappeared; the tourism department does not | | | | was a minimalist's dream: a bed, a tiny nightstand, |
| think they contribute to a positive image of the | | | | a few drawers and a wooden wardrobe. But the |
| island. I do. They are not only considerably less | | | | bed was comfortable and we were pleased with |
| expensive than most hotels, they are much more | | | | our choice. True to his word, the next night we |
| fun.We stumbled on to the Soleado Guest House | | | | had a room with a private bath. We stayed there |
| on Ghar-id-Dud Street on our first trip to the | | | | for the rest of the trip.The next day we had |
| island in 1994. The whole trip was something of | | | | breakfast with the other guests. Along with our |
| an accident because we parlayed a | | | | three new friends we met people from Great |
| two-hundred-dollar round-trip fare to London with | | | | Britain, Australia, Germany, and France. They filled |
| one to Malta for a similar price. We didn't have | | | | us in on their favorite places to see. Many had |
| much time to make sleeping accomodations and | | | | made yearly pilgrimages to stay at the guest |
| we reserved through the internet at a hotel in | | | | house, visit the island, and renew acquaintances |
| Qowra, at the northeastern end of the island. It | | | | with Joey. We invited Dora, our British friend, to |
| was nice, but too remote, and really not our kind | | | | accompany us on a day of sightseeing, and she |
| of place. Read: too expensive.We found another | | | | turned out to be a delightful companion; we |
| hotel on The Strand in Sliema and made a | | | | exchanged Christmas cards for several years. |
| one-night reservation. That evening we went out | | | | Would that have happened in a four-star? I had |
| to see the town and wandered into the Snuggy | | | | my first experience with Maltese bread. Fantastic. |
| Pub (yes, that was the name) that was part of | | | | (I later learned that the original starter for San |
| the Soleado Guest House. It was loud and friendly | | | | Francisco sourdough bread came from Malta.)I |
| and everyone seemed to be having a great time. | | | | have stayed at the Soleado on my eight trips |
| The walls were lined with photos of the bartender | | | | since. The guest house became the setting for |
| hotel manager, Joey Bugeja, with guests. While | | | | my novel, The Cellini Masterpiece. Its name |
| we were sitting with our beers, a matronly, | | | | changed to the Bellestrado and Joey became |
| white-haired English lady came to our table and | | | | Josefina, but if you read it, you'll find the bar and |
| asked if we wanted some tea. She would make it | | | | meet some guests a bit like the real-life ones. I |
| for us. Who could resist?She disappeared and | | | | would recommend the Soleado to anyone who |
| returned from the hotel kitchen with a tray with | | | | plans to visit the island and prefers adventure to |
| a teapot and three cups and sat down with us. | | | | luxury.John Anderson has had a lifelong interest in |
| We found she was from York and a guest at the | | | | Malta and once sold stamps under the company |
| hotel. She introduced us to a Scottish couple. All | | | | name of Maltalately. His interest in collectibles as |
| three of them suggested we stay there.The next | | | | well as his travel preferences are off the beaten |
| night we moved in. We were grateful for our | | | | path. |
| good health because the balky elevator chose | | | | |